Skin life-sustaining minerals, the purest elements of the earth, are essential to the ANNISSA™ mineral make up line. Micronized minerals protect and correct skin without irritation. Minerals are a chemical free sun-block, naturally shielding the skin against damaging ultra-violet light. Every formula is hypoallergenic and oil-free.

Follow there are some advice to makeover yourself.

Highlighting and camouflaging with mineral make up

When analysing your client’s face you will identify facial features that can be made to stand out and others that may need to be corrected or camouflaged due to flaws and imperfections. Highlighting and camouflaging can be applied to modify:

• facial shapes
• individual facial features such as eyes, mouth, cheeks and nose.

 Light colours accentuate or highlight the shape and size of the facial area. Dark colours help diminish the shape and size of the facial area.

 To make a round face look more oval

Apply a light colour of foundation or concealer to the chin area to highlight the chin, therefore making it appear longer. The next step is to apply a darker colour to the cheek area and back towards the ear, which gives a receding effect to the side of the face. A darker colour of foundation, concealer or blusher could be used to give the desired result.

 To make a square face look more oval

Apply a dark colour of foundation above the temple area towards the hairline .

The next step is to apply a darker colour to the cheek area and back towards the ear, which gives a receding effect to the side of the face.

Apply a darker foundation along the jaw line.

 It is also possible to identify bone size and structure, such as:

• small
• average
• large
• high or low cheek bones.

 Small size bone structure, consideration should be given to the use of bright colours which help highlight and enhance prominent features such as the eyes, cheeks and lips, and give the illusion of a fuller face.  

Average sized bone structure allows for a wider range of make-up colours to be used. Prominent facial features can be emphasised with the use of highlighting techniques (lighter colours).

Larger facial features can be minimised if required with the use of darker colours, which give the impression of a reduction in size.

Higher cheek bone structure, then a bright coloured powder can be applied to the upper level of the cheekbones. This would draw attention to the area and help give the impression of a higher cheekbone structure.

The basic principle of corrective and camouflage make-up is to use lighter colours to highlight good features and the darker colours to correct or camouflage imperfections.

The next step is to choose the correct product application to achieve the required highlighting or corrective result.

Creating make-up illusions

A number of techniques can be used to accentuate or soften different parts of the face.

Eyes

To give the illusion of larger eyes, a lighter shade of eye shadow should be applied all over the eyelid, with darker eye shadow shading applied only to the outer corner. This darker eye shadow should then be directed from the outer corner, up towards the eyebrow and in towards the centre of the eyelid. The darker shade of eye shadow would need then to be blended well with a lighter colour, in order to highlight and soften the application, giving a more subtle and natural finish. Use an eyeliner pencil only on the outer corner of the upper eyelid. This technique of highlighting and shading should define the outer corner of the eyes and give a lift effect creating the illusion of eyes which are larger and wider.

Cheeks

Blushers add warmth to the make-up and help define facial contour. The paler colours soften the features while the brighter ones make them stand out. Apply blusher on an angle towards the top of the ear starting from the centre of the cheek.

Nose

To give the illusion of a smaller nose, apply a darker foundation or concealer to the end or tip of the nose and lighter tones to the bridge and sides of the nose. To emphasise the bridge of the nose use darker tones on the sides and lighter tones in the centre of the nose. The basic principle is to highlight the area with lighter tones of foundation or concealer.

Lips

To give the illusion of fuller lips, use the lip pencil slightly above the lip line starting from the centre and working towards the corner of the upper lip. This must be done slowly using short feathery strokes with a well-sharpened pencil.

Chin

The same highlighting principles are used here. Dark colours recede and light colours highlight.

Corrective make up technique for eyes

Almond Eyes

CHARACTERISTICS: The almond eye is thought to have ‘perfect’ proportions. The distance between the lash line and the socket line should be equal to the distance from the socket line to the brow bone.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE:Depending on the distance between almond eyes, there is not any corrective work required. Any technique can be used on this eye shape due to the perfect proportions.

Protruding Eyes

CHARACTERISTICS: These eyes are characterised by the bulge ‘from socket to lash line and sometimes from the bottom lash line to the under eye area. This eye area is usually very “fleshy” and can be difficult to work with. This eye can appear to be quite large and open.

AIM: To disguise bulginess of eyes, and to lessen the wide open eye effect.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE: It is important to use medium to dark matte colours on this eye shape as anything else will accentuate the bulginess. A darker matte shadow should be applied all over the lid, leaving enough space for a highlight colour just under the brow. The best techniques for this eye type would be the Smoked. When using eyeliner, remember to follow the natural lash line and when using a brush, smudge the line slightly upward and outward to avoid attention on this area. The eyeliner is used to help recede the mobile lid into the face.

KEY TI PS:

• Use medium to dark matte colours on mobile lid
• Accentuate outer lashes only.
• Darker eyeliner on both top and lower inner rim
• Under eye area concealer as shader

DOWN TURNED EYES

 CHARACTERISTICS:

The outside corners of this eye slope downwards and the eyes can sometimes be wide apart.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE:

Apply eyeliner close to the lash line’ and smudge upward to avoid a harsh line. Blend a shading colour upward and outward from the socket line to make the eye appear lifted. Eyeliner on the lower lash line should also be applied in an upward motion. Curl the lashes paying particular attention to the outer corners. Apply mascara concentrating on the outer three quarter mark.

KEY TIPS:

• Apply all products to lift the outer edges
• Darker colours are best to use on outer edges, to disguise the downward slope of the eye.
• Eyeliner on upper inside rim and lower inner corner will drop the inner corner of the eye.
• Apply false lashes to half outer corner

SMALL EYES

CHARACTERISTICS: These eyes are characterised by their small size compared to the other features.

AIM: To make the eyes appear larger.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE: If a person has small eyes, if is best to use lighter colours on them as dark colours will make them appear smaller. Try to focus more on the lips and cheeks and keep the eyes open and fresh looking. You can add a shading colour to the outer edges to give length. There is literally no room for too much colour detail. Curl the lashes to open the eye up and apply mascara, concentrating on the outer corners. False lashes are great too.

KEY TIPS:

• Use lighter colours
• Pearly and shimmery colours work well
• Focus attention on lips and cheeks
• Do not use dark colours as they will make the eye appear smaller
• Curl lashes and apply mascara
• False lashes are also an asset

HOODED EYES

 CHARACTERISTICS: These eyes -have a noticeable fold of skin the hangs over the socket line. This often happens with age as the skin loses its elasticity. This eye type can also be called “heavy lidded”.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE: Always use matte colours on this eye. Make sure shadows are blended well. Ask your client to look down instead of having their eyes closed, when applying eye makeup to tighten the lid. Medium to dark colours are best for the lid. Do not try to achieve a socket line if too much of it is hidden, as it will get lost or may not be even when the person opens their eyes. The Smoked techniques would be best for this eye type.

KEY TI PS:

• Use matte colours
• Smoked techniques are best
• It is possible to use a slight pearl highlight under the brow if desired.

ROUND EYES

CHARACTERISTICS: This eye type is characterised by its spherical shape, unlike the almond eye.

AIM: To elongate the eye

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUES: Our objective is to elongate and ‘give shape to the eye’. To achieve this we use eyeliner on the top and lower lids, following the natural lash line. Extending the colour beyond the natural length of the eye, on top and bottom keep the colour use on the lid a light to medium shade. Concentrate most of the colour used to the outer corner blended slightly out and up. Provided eyes are not close set, extending the inner corner may also contribute to elongating the eyes.

KEY TIPS:

• Aim is to elongate the eye
• Extend eyeliners at outer and inner corners
• Extend shadows at outer corners
• Outer corner lashes extended

DEEP SET EYES

CHARACTERISTICS: This eye shape is identified by how deep the eye is positioned in the socket. Usually the mobile lid is smaller in proportion to the area above the socket line.

AIM: To make the mobile lid appear larger and further forward.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE: To correct the depth of the eye, a highlight colour needs to be applied to the mobile lid. A deeper colour is then applied just in the socket line then blended up to add contour to the eye. The Socket or Classic techniques would be perfect for this eye shape.

KEY-TIPS:

• Shade protruding brow bone.
• Highlight mobile lid.

 WIDE SET EYES

CHARACTERISTICS: The Perfect proportional distance to have between the eyes is one “eyes width”. If the eyes are spaced further than this they can be classified as wide set eyes.The eyebrows can also follow suit and may need correction.

AIM: To bring eyes closer together.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUES: The aim is to bring the emphasis toward the middle of the face. A light application of natural contouring to replace the shadow at either sides of the nose at the inner corner of the eyes will help bring them closer together. Using a darker eyeliner colour accentuate the inner corners of the eyes. The eyebrows may need to be corrected. Using a pencil or eye shadow draw a new starting point for the brows, a little closer together than they naturally are. Curl lashes and apply mascara making sure not to emphasise the outer corners too much.

KEY TIPS: 

• Accentuate inner corners using dark colours.
• Curl lashes
• Apply mascara. Do not emphasise outer corners.

CLOSE SET EYES

CHARACTERISTICS: The space between the eyes is less than one eyes width.

AIM: To create the appearance of more space between the eyes.

CORRECTIVE TECHNIQUE: To create the appearance that these eyes are further apart, a lighter colour can, be used on the inner corners of the eyes. It is best to use a darker colour on the outer edges, blending upwards and outward. Doing this will extend the eye bringing attention to the outer corners. Remove brow hairs if they are growing beyond the inner corner of the eyes. If you wish to apply eyeliner, the best results are seen when it is only applied to the outer corners. Curl lashes and apply mascara, concentrating on the outer edges.

KEY TIPS:

• Open inner corners using highlight colours.
• Extend outer edges using shading colours
• Apply liner to outer edges
• Curl lashes and apply mascara. Concentrate on outer edges.

Asian Eyes

Asian uniqueness can be broken into different area of Asia. For example the Japanese face is slightly different in structure to Korean. Application techniques and personal preferences differ between all Asian cultures. Asian Skin tone ranges from the fairest porcelain to the deepest golden bronze and hair colour can range from light brown to blue black.

Asian eyes have advantages in regard to shading. They have a clear space between the lash line, upper lid and the brow. The open space makes layering bands of colour easy. There is usually no crease and the brow bone does not protrude. Because the eye shadow is not concealed behind the lashes or in a crease, the colours you use are more obvious.

Asian eye lashes tent to be very straight and grow downward. Adding false eye lashes is another way to open and enlarge the eye area.

Three Asian eye looks

The basic look:

Use three colours: Shade in darkest colour, mobile in a medium colour and brow bone highlighted..

• Light wash of colour from lash line to the brow bone
• Contour the inner corner of the eye lid and blend out with a matt shadow
• Highlight the brow bone
• Line top lid only
• Liquid eyeliner is suitable

 The essential look

 Four colour technique

• Light wash across the whole eye
• Darkest colour must be applied on outer corner
• Sheer wash contouring colour inner corner vertical to the nose
• Bright colour above pupil in the centre
• Lining top and bottom is optional

Dramatic look

 Two colours: shade and highlight

• Medium to dark colour is blended from the lash line up to the middle of the lid.
• Graduated colour from the inner corner, intensifying the colour and building the shade upward toward the outer edge of the eye.
• Bottom liner is more concentrated at the root of the lash line and blends out, joining with the top.
• Highlight the brow bone with a reflective texture.
• Overall the shape is like an almond.

 Corrective Asian eye technique

Bulging eyes

• Outline the eye lid on top and bottom with a dark pencil or a heavily pigmented powder
• Using a dark shadow apply upper lash line that reaches half way between lashes and brow.
• Use a crescent of high lighter under the outer part of the eye.